Integrating new chickens into an existing flock does not have to be unduly stressful for the chicken keeper or the chickens. The main concern is always that the two groups of chickens will not get along, but if done correctly, it can be done without drama or bloodshed. I use an approach to flock integration that I call the Playpen Method. I have used it successfully with each addition to my flock over the years.
The Playpen Method is simple: allow the newbies and the original flock members to see and hear each other without having physical contact for a period of time. This allows both groups to familiarize themselves with one another while maintaining a “safe zone” for the new chickens. Integrating new flock members should be done slowly in order to minimize the stress on everyone. The process will take varying amounts of time depending on the flock and individual personalities within the flock.
The Playpen Method entails creating a confinement system (aka: playpen) for the newbies in the vicinity of the flock. This can mean that the flock remains in the run with a small, separate playpen near or in the run for the newbies. It can also mean that the flock free-ranges with the newbies in a playpen nearby.
I have used several different playpens for my newbies but the technique is always the same: look but don’t touch. Water and feed should be made available to the birds in the playpen at all times. After the confinement period of approximately a week, provide the newbies with an opening from the playpen to venture out if and when they wish. Both sets of birds should be ignoring each other by this point. The newbies will typically stay close to the playpen and maintain a safe distance from the flock initially, but eventually they will become comfortable and begin mingling freely. It is normal for the existing flock members to explore inside the playpen and will make it clear to the newbies that they are in charge, however, there should never be excessive chasing, harassment, bullying, aggression or similar monkey business. If hostility is persistent, the newbies should be returned to the playpen for a few more days before trying again.
The newest chicken tractor Mr. Chicken Chick built. Get the DIY instructions HERE!
dog kennelbelow is subdivided for two different age groups of chickens. The ‘teenage’ chickens will reside here for a week until being moved to the grow-out coop next door. When they are moved, I will close off the nest boxes for the first week or two, which will prevent anyone from hiding or sleeping in them and teach them to sleep on roosts as they should. When chickens get into the habit of sleeping in nest boxes they soil the nesting material where eggs will be laid. Good coop management and flock training leads to clean eggs.
Newbies whose playpen is NOT in the coop, are put in the playpen every morning and returned to the brooder at night until I’m certain they’re reasonably comfortable with the flock. It’s a little tricky to get them to understand the concept of going into the coop at night, however, as they have not been trained to the coop yet. When they are placed into the coop full-time, I close off the nest boxes as described above to discourage sleeping and pooping in them. This process will vary depending upon a variety of factors, including coop setup and available equipment.
Some minor scuffling is to be expected as the established pecking order is shaken up. However, if there is any persistent bullying or bloodshed, remove the victim from the general population immediately, clean their wounds and keep them physically separated (ideally, within the flock) until they are fully healed. This is necessary for their own safety. If the victim is bullied upon her return to the flock, separate the aggressor in a playpen within the flock for a few days to prevent physical interaction. The goal is to reduce the aggressor’s stress, promote her familiarity with the newbies from a safe distance.
Kathy Shea Mormino
Affectionately known internationally as The Chicken Chick®, Kathy Shea Mormino shares a fun-loving, informative style to raising backyard chickens. …Read on
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Integrating new chickens into an existing flock does not have to be unduly stressful for the chicken keeper or the chickens. The main concern is always that the two groups of chickens will not get along, but if done correctly, it can be done without drama or bloodshed. I use an approach to flock integration that I call the Playpen Method. I have used it successfully with each addition to my flock over the years.
The Playpen Method is simple: allow the newbies and the original flock members to see and hear each other without having physical contact for a period of time. This allows both groups to familiarize themselves with one another while maintaining a “safe zone” for the new chickens. Integrating new flock members should be done slowly in order to minimize the stress on everyone. The process will take varying amounts of time depending on the flock and individual personalities within the flock.
The Playpen Method entails creating a confinement system (aka: playpen) for the newbies in the vicinity of the flock. This can mean that the flock remains in the run with a small, separate playpen near or in the run for the newbies. It can also mean that the flock free-ranges with the newbies in a playpen nearby.
I have used several different playpens for my newbies but the technique is always the same: look but don’t touch. Water and feed should be made available to the birds in the playpen at all times. After the confinement period of approximately a week, provide the newbies with an opening from the playpen to venture out if and when they wish. Both sets of birds should be ignoring each other by this point. The newbies will typically stay close to the playpen and maintain a safe distance from the flock initially, but eventually they will become comfortable and begin mingling freely. It is normal for the existing flock members to explore inside the playpen and will make it clear to the newbies that they are in charge, however, there should never be excessive chasing, harassment, bullying, aggression or similar monkey business. If hostility is persistent, the newbies should be returned to the playpen for a few more days before trying again.
The newest chicken tractor Mr. Chicken Chick built. Get the DIY instructions HERE!
dog kennelbelow is subdivided for two different age groups of chickens. The ‘teenage’ chickens will reside here for a week until being moved to the grow-out coop next door. When they are moved, I will close off the nest boxes for the first week or two, which will prevent anyone from hiding or sleeping in them and teach them to sleep on roosts as they should. When chickens get into the habit of sleeping in nest boxes they soil the nesting material where eggs will be laid. Good coop management and flock training leads to clean eggs.
Newbies whose playpen is NOT in the coop, are put in the playpen every morning and returned to the brooder at night until I’m certain they’re reasonably comfortable with the flock. It’s a little tricky to get them to understand the concept of going into the coop at night, however, as they have not been trained to the coop yet. When they are placed into the coop full-time, I close off the nest boxes as described above to discourage sleeping and pooping in them. This process will vary depending upon a variety of factors, including coop setup and available equipment.
Some minor scuffling is to be expected as the established pecking order is shaken up. However, if there is any persistent bullying or bloodshed, remove the victim from the general population immediately, clean their wounds and keep them physically separated (ideally, within the flock) until they are fully healed. This is necessary for their own safety. If the victim is bullied upon her return to the flock, separate the aggressor in a playpen within the flock for a few days to prevent physical interaction. The goal is to reduce the aggressor’s stress, promote her familiarity with the newbies from a safe distance.
Hi Kathy, I'm SO glad I found your site! We have one Barred Rock that is 10 weeks old and a Buff Orp and Americauna that are both 6 weeks old. (We got the BR by chance when a couple days old and realized during our learning process that we should get a couple more so she wouldn't be by herself – hence the 4 weeks age difference.) Before realizing we would be getting another couple chicks we bought a pre-fabbed coop that is about 6L x 3W x 3.5H and we made a 4L x 3W x 3.5H covered… Read more »
Lady Rhonda,One of the better ways of achieving your goal is to acquire hens which can be readily induced to become broody and give them eggs of the breeds you desire. One starts them with eggs of any origin just to get them going. Many quality hobbyists and commercial growers have disease free eggs which your foster mother hen can hatch and rear. Over the years it has been my experience that you can give an adult Silkie, for example, a clutch of 8 to 10 eggs and she will go broody as early as 24 hours after you have… Read more »
I rush to tell you to not be glib. Acquring animals is a serious gambit requiring great finesse and care. The Chicken Chic knows her stuff. Read carefully her and my blogs and those who have experience before you make a move. I'm an old zoologist who also has a long history in veterinary technology so just heed the warnings and adhere to the advice of veterans. Their commentary is priceless! You won't be sorry…
The Chicken Chiick is absolutely correct. Getting established chickens from an outside source, especially an auction house, can be a great and almost certain way to bring home dire pathology you really don't want nor can afford. Diseases introduced on your premises are ever so tough to eradicate! Get babies from a quality feed store, hobbyist who raises quality stock and is known by hobbyists, or go to an established hatchery. Do your do diligence and research on the Internet maintaining contacts via poultry blogs. You will be glad that you did! Visit the hobbyist; most will welcome you if… Read more »
Wait until they are roughly of equal size Keeping them in contact through a wired divider of some kind that neither can penetrate. The idea is to keep them familiar with each other but apart during the equalization process. This means increasing the porosity of the divider at intervals so that they maintain a controlled but separated contact. Then make the introduction at night using the Chicken Chick's playpen method, q.v. Be sure to thank her for the result upon your success. Another way to approach any change in almost any animal's life is to do it gradually. This almost… Read more »