Thoughts of surviving winter with chickens don’t have to send chills up your spine. There are only a few things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water, a nutritionally complete chicken feed and a dry, draft-free living space. Actively planning to ensure chickens have those resources is the key to cold weather comfort and safety. When effective litter and best management practices are used for waste management, bracing for winter’s bite shouldn’t require much effort. 

 The thought of surviving winter with chickens don't have to send chills up your spine. There are really only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

     Features:

  • Built-in thermostat turns heating element on at 40°F, off at 60°F 
  • Provides clean water to the flock year-round with removable electric cord with detachable, 16 foot, grounded electrical cord
  • Lid shape prevents birds from perching on waterer
  • Heavy-duty handle for carrying and hanging
  •  3 recessed nipples with drip-catch design
  • 16′ electrical cord allows more flexibility in placement
  • Detachable 16 ft. grounded electrical cord for non-winter use 
  • 3 gallon capacity
  • NEW feature: hinged quick-fill cap on lid!

Entry details below!

Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

WATER IS ESSENTIAL

Water is the essential nutrient in a chicken’s daily diet; it is required for regulating body temperature, digestion, growth and egg production. Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

NEVER KEEP WATER OR FOOD INSIDE THE CHICKEN COOP!

3 Solutions to frozen water:

Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

1. Cookie Tin water heater: For less than $10 and 10 minutes, a water heater can be fashioned out of common household objects, which will keep water in plastic and metal waterers liquid in sub-zero temperatures. (limitation: electricity required)

Cookie Tin water heater: For less than $10 and 10 minutes, a water heater can be fashioned out of common household objects, which will keep water in plastic and metal waterers liquid in sub-zero temperatures. (limitation: electricity required)DIY Cookie Tin Water Heater Instructions HERE

This drinker is available HERE and HERE.

2. Poultry Nipple waterers: A variety of nipple water systems can be used to ensure a constant water supply, from a homemade system with a 5 gallon bucket with an aquarium heater to a commercially available unit with its own heating system. (electricity required)

 Without electricity to the coop, traditional waterers require changing frequently throughout the day to prevent freezing. They should be emptied or removed at dusk and returned to the flock first thing in the morning. (not the most efficient system, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do)

3. Haul it: Without electricity to the coop, traditional waterers require changing frequently throughout the day to prevent freezing. They should be emptied or removed at dusk and returned to the flock first thing in the morning. It’s not the most efficient system, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY

While access to drinking water is essential, ironically, water is also the enemy of chickens in winter. Most breeds tolerate cold extremely well, but freezing temperatures inside the coop in addition to moisture increases the risk of frostbite. Chickens generate a great deal of moisture from respiration (breathing) as well as from pooping as droppings consist of 85% water. If the windows of the coop have condensation on them in the morning, there is a problem. Either the litter type is ineffective, there is an unacceptable amount of poop in the coop, and/or a drinker is being kept inside the coop. NEVER KEEP FOOD OR WATER INSIDE THE CHICKEN COOP!

While access to drinking water is essential, ironically, water is also the enemy of chickens in winter. Most breeds tolerate cold extremely well, but freezing temperatures inside the coop in addition to moisture is the recipe for frostbite.

Read all about frostbite prevention and treatment here.

Frostbite is most likely to occur overnight in a cold, poorly ventilated coop where litter is damp and moisture from droppings and respiration cannot escape. Frostbite to combs, wattles, and toes is super painful and can interfere with fertility in roosters and egg production in hens. Roosters and breeds with single combs are at the greatest risk of frostbite. Much more about frostbite prevention and treatment here.

If utilizing a hygrometer inside the chicken coop, the target relative humidity is 50-70%

STRATEGIES FOR CONTROLLING MOISTURE:

If utilizing a hygrometer inside the chicken coop, the target relative humidity is 50-70%.

Droppings boards are essentially a shelf designed to collect chicken poop deposited overnight. The boards are scraped down every morning, and the poop is removed from the coop. The less poop inside the coop, the less moisture in the coop. Droppings also generate ammonia, which can be a respiratory hazard to the flock, particularly in a closed coop. When droppings boards are used, a major source of humidity & ammonia are eliminated.

Use Droppings Boards
Droppings boards are essentially a shelf designed to collect chicken poop deposited overnight. The boards are scraped down every morning, and the poop is removed from the coop. The less poop inside the coop, the less moisture in the coop. Droppings also generate ammonia, which can be a respiratory hazard to the flock, particularly in a closed coop. When droppings boards are used, a major source of humidity & potential ammonia are eliminated.

I add thin layer of Sweet Coop® to the droppings boards to absorb any residual moisture after scraping.

Chickens should not be without water for more than an hour or so during the day. If using supplemental lighting to promote continued egg production in autumn and winter, I suggest using a poultry nipple waterer inside the coop for the very early morning hours before the flock is let out into the run. This will minimize the amount of water than could spill in the bedding. A drip pan of some sort to catch stray droplets is a good idea. Remove the waterer from the coop when the flock is let out of the coop for the day.

Don’t Keep Water Inside the Coop!
Keep feed and drinkers OUT of the chicken coop! While controlling moisture from respiration and droppings is manageable with proper litter management and droppings boards, it is impossible to keep ahead of the moisture curve with drinking water in the litter and chickens are traipsing into the coop all day to eat, drink and poop. As long as the flock is given access to water within an hour of daybreak, there is no need for water inside the coop. Chickens do not drink water at night- they sleep.

The thought of surviving winter with chickens doesn't have to send chills up your spine. There are only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

Use Sand for Litter
The use of sand as litter inside the chicken coop is an outstanding choice in the winter because it evaporates moisture more rapidly than other litter and stays drier as a result. Sand also retains warmth better than any other bedding and given its high thermal mass, it will keep coop temperatures more stable than other litter types such as pine shavings. Straw is not appropriate for use as litter for chicken coops. Learn why here.
The use of sand as litter inside the chicken coop is an outstanding choice in the winter because it evaporates moisture more rapidly than other litter and stays drier as a result. Sand also retains warmth better than any other bedding and given its high thermal mass, it will keep coop temperatures more stable than other litter choices such as pine shavings and straw. Sweet PDZ sprinkled in the litter will help control moisture and ammonia.

Deep litter method?
I do not recommend the deep litter method for most backyard flocks. Deep litter is a method of chicken waste management that calls for droppings and organic litter materials to compost inside the chicken coop. There is a popular misconception that deep litter is the lazy man’s way of managing waste and heating the coop, it is not. Deep litter requires careful management, which includes stirring and monitoring moisture content and temperatures. The deep litter method implemented improperly can be a serious health hazard to the flock. Most backyard flocks are not large enough to produce the requisite manure mass to reach the required temperatures at the heart of the litter to execute this method safely. The litter should NOT be changed every few weeks, the process should NOT be started in winter, there should NOT be fewer than 4 inches of litter on the coop floor, diatomaceous earth (DE) should NEVER be used in the litter and chickens should NOT be relied upon to manage the litter. More information about the deep litter method here.

Insulating is intended to retain radiant heat and reduce heat loss, making it more feasible to ventilate the coop well.

Insulation on coop roof.

INSULATE & ELIMINATE DRAFTS

Insulating is intended to retain radiant heat and reduce heat loss. Insulating a coop does NOT mean making it air-tight! If there are gaps in walls or around windows they should be sealed to prevent drafts.
Insulation must be hidden from chickens- otherwise they will eat it. Feed bags are a cost-effective choice for covering insulation. We insulate the roof of our 4’x6′ coop. The north and west-facing walls of the coop are protected from the wind by heavyweight plastic covering the run walls.

Chickens cannot retain the heat they naturally generate if their feathers are ruffled from drafts blowing on them while sleeping. Eliminate drafts and the chickens will keep themselves warm in a dry chicken coop.

Bales of straw or hay should not be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus can grow inside the bales and create a respiratory disaster area inside the coop, in particular, Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia). Far better to have a cold coop than sick chickens.

Bales of straw or hay should NEVER be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus grow on them, and mites often live inside straw, creating a respiratory health disaster zone inside the coop; of particular concern is Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia).

Bales of straw or hay should not be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus can grow inside the bales and create a respiratory disaster area inside the coop, in particular, Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia). Far better to have a cold coop than sick chickens.

CREATE WIND-BREAKS 

Covering run walls with 4 or 6 ml contractor’s plastic sheeting plastic or tarps can serve several purposes: it provides the flock with a warmer run by keeping rain, wind and snow out during the day and it can keep the coop warmer and draft-free at night, depending upon the location of the run relative to the coop. Furring strips should be nailed or screwed to the structure to ensure that the plastic remains in place. Staples are likely to fail in windy conditions. I use 6ml opaque sheeting and clear plastic sheeting for the front of the runs for glass-like visibility

Covering run walls with construction grade plastic sheeting or tarps can serve several purposes: it provides the flock with a warmer run by keeping rain, wind and snow out during the day and it can keep the coop warmer and draft-free at night, depending upon the location of the run relative to the coop. Furring strips should be nailed or screwed to the structure to ensure that the plastic remains in place.Shown: contractor’s plastic sheeting

Contractor’s plastic and lathing secured with screws keeps moisture and drafts out of the winter chicken run.

Attach plastic to chicken run using screws and lathing.

VENTILATE WITHOUT DRAFTS

Moisture and any ammonia must have a route of escape from the coop even if it means losing some heat in the process. Don’t get caught up with this detail- backyard chickens do not spend all day and all night in the coop, the coop will be opened in the morning, the birds will leave the coop and plenty of fresh air will enter throughout the day. Ventilation is more of a concern for birds kept in commercial buildings 24/7 than backyard chickens overnight in a coop.

Ensuring adequate ventilation is the single most important cold weather chicken care task. Yes, even more important than heat. Why? Because ammonia and moisture must have a route of escape from the coop even if it means losing some heat in the process. Fresh air inside the coop is critical to chickens' health.

HOW TO VENTILATE A COOP:
The goal is to get as much air exchange throughout the coop as possible without drafts, particularly in the roost area. Ideally there will be windows and/or vents on all four sides of the coop. Ventilation holes towards the top of the coop, far above roost height and chicken height are best for achieving effective cold weather air exchange. If your coop does not have adequate ventilation, create more. Think: windows, not little holes. A reciprocating saw, some hinges, hardware cloth and washers/screws are all the supplies necessary to install additional ventilation in an existing coop.

The thought of surviving winter with chickens doesn't have to send chills up your spine. There are only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

We built our Little Deuce coop with vented eaves and a 9 foot ceiling. Yes, the warmest air will exit through the ventilation at the top of the coop, but warm air holds more moisture than cold air and the warmest air will take the moisture with it, which is the precisely what we want to accomplish.

The goal is to get as much air exchange throughout the coop as possible without drafts, particularly in the roost area. Ideally there will be windows and/or vents on all four sides of the coop. Ventilation holes towards the top of the coop, far above roost height and chicken height are best for achieving effective cold weather air exchange. If your coop does not have adequate ventilation, create more.

We did not build our 4’x6′ coop- it came with three functioning windows on two opposing walls, but they did not provide enough ventilation for cooling in the summer, so…we cut more windows in the coop. The photo below shows the drop-down window we created above the pop door. Since the walls of the run are covered with heavy plastic in the winter, I can use the homemade coop vents in conjunction with the factory-installed windows to promote airflow in the coop.

The take-home message is: install as much ventilation as high up on the walls as possible while ensuring that the air over the roost remains still. You want the warmest, heaviest air moving up and out of the coop. If necessary, create a roost hood, which is like an awning over the roost (see photo above) to ensure that the pocket of air around the roosting chickens remains still. They're expending energy to keep themselves warm and cold drafts will rob them of it.

The take-home message is: install as much ventilation as high up on the walls as possible while ensuring that the air over the roost remains still. You want the warmest, heaviest air moving up and out of the coop. If necessary, create a roost hood, which is like an awning over the roost to ensure that the pocket of air above the roosting chickens remains still. They’re expending energy to keep themselves warm and cold drafts will rob them of it.

This roost hood is made with styrofoam insulation boards, which the chickens may peck at- if they do, covering the sheets with duct tape will solve that problem.

This roost hood is made with styrofoam insulation boards, which the chickens may peck at- if they do, covering the sheets with duct tape will solve that problem.

Wherever you live, your chickens will naturally acclimate to the changes in temperature from season to season. Regardless of where you come down on the issue of heating the chicken coop, please remember that a chicken's physiology is not the same as a person's. Our perception of how cold we would be in the coop at night is not the same as a chicken's perception.

THE HOT TOPIC: HEAT IN THE COOP

Wherever you live, your chickens will naturally acclimate to the changes in temperature from season to season. Regardless of where you come down on the issue of heating the chicken coop, please remember that a chicken’s physiology is not the same as a person’s. Our perception of how cold we would be in the coop at night is not the same as a chicken’s actual comfort level!

A chicken is able to increase its body temperature by eating more in cold weather. Digestion creates internal heat, which radiates through the skin warming the air next to it, which is then trapped against its body by feathers. Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down coats!

A chicken is also able to conserve body heat by restricting blood-flow to its comb, wattles and feet, the very parts of the body that give off excess heat in warm weather. Not only do they have mechanisms to keep themselves comfortable in the cold, they huddle together to keep each other warm.

How a Chicken Regulates Body Temperature

A chicken is able to increase its body temperature by eating more in cold weather. Digestion creates internal heat, which radiates through the skin warming the air next to it, which is then trapped against its body by feathers. Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down coats!

Doc Brown is keeping herself warm by fluffing out her feathers to trap warm air next to her body

Doc Brown is shown here keeping herself warm by fluffing out her feathers to trap warm air next to her body.

A chicken is also able to conserve body heat by restricting blood-flow to its comb, wattles and feet, the very parts of the body that give off excess heat in warm weather. Not only do they have mechanisms to keep themselves comfortable in the cold, they huddle together to keep each other comfortable and warm.

Installing 2″x4″ boards instead of round roosts provides them with the ability to cover and warm their feet. I took the following photo inside the coop late at night after an all day snowstorm. The day’s high temperature was 18°F and the temperature outside at 11pm was 18°F. The temperature inside the coop was nearly 40°F! The combination of windbreaks, insulation, sand as litter and the chickens’ collective body heat all contribute to an extremely reasonable, comfortable and dry environment for the flock.

Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down jackets |The Chicken Chick®

IF you decide to add heat to the chicken coop in the winter, I implore you to please put safety first in choosing a heat source.

 

Never use a heat lamp! There is simply no way to make heat lamps completely safe with flying animals regardless of the number of chains/clamps/tethers or guards employed. There are countless ways heat lamps can cause fires. Feathers and dust are highly flammable- any scuffle inside the coop can send a chicken and/or feathers flying into a heat lamp, catching them on fire. There is no way to use a traditional heat lamp safely inside a chicken coop.

There is simply no way to make heat lamps completely safe regardless of the number of chains/clamps/tethers or guards employed. Chickens have wings and feathers that are highly flammable- any scuffle inside the coop can send a chicken and/or feathers flying into a heat lamp, catching them on fire.

Fires like this occur every year in coops and barns due to heat lamps installed with the best of intentions.

  • If you must, only use a safe form of heat such as a flat panel, radiant heater. Only supply enough heat to raise the coop temperature a few degrees- the coop should not feel warm to you. Chickens are not served well by walking out of a toasty hen house into a freezing cold run. The more time they spend inside the coop, the more droppings accumulate inside the coop, the more moisture there is inside the coop, the less exercise they get, etc.

Automatically regulate the use of electric heat sources such as a flat panel heater or cookie tin water heater by utilizing a device like the Thermo Cube TC3, which will turn the power on at 35°F and off at 45°F

Plan for power failure. If you do not have a generator to power a heat source to the coop during a blackout, do not heat the coop at all. Chickens have died and will die as a result of sudden drops in temperature from a power outage when the coop is heated.

The bigger the run, (aka: enclosed outdoor area attached to the coop) the better. A spacious run gives chickens the personal space and exercise opportunities that do not exist inside the average coop. Chickens must be provided with elbow room to fend off boredom, obesity and avoid behavioral problems such as feather picking and egg-eating.

Plan for power failure. If you do not have a generator to power a heat source to the coop during a blackout, do not heat the coop at all. Chickens have died and will die as a result of sudden drops in temperature from a power outage when the coop is heated.

Perhaps we should have gone south for the winter?

chicken sweaters are not only unnecessary, they may be counterproductive, here's why:

CHICKEN SWEATERS: Just say NO!

The average chicken does NOT NEED a sweater. I’m not trying to be the Fun Police, I’m all about taking eggcellent care of pet chickens and enjoy a little silliness with them from time-to-time, but I have long felt that chicken sweaters are not only unnecessary, they can be hazardous, here’s why:

1. A sweater prevents a chicken from keeping itself warm naturally. (see “How a chicken regulates body temperature,” above)

2. A sweater will trap moisture next to the chicken’s skin, which further impedes its ability to stay warm and encourages lice & mites to set up camp on feathers and skin.

3. A sweater is a painful proposition for a molting hen whose sensitive pin feathers are better left untouched.

4. A sweater prevents a chicken from maintaining their own hygiene; dust-bathing and preening their feathers are important to keeping parasite populations down and feathers in good working order.

A chicken sweater provides hawks with a handy carrying-case for a free-range chicken. Let's not make their jobs any easier.

5. A chicken sweater provides hawks with a handy carrying-case for a free-range chicken. Let’s not make their jobs any easier.

A roosters spurs or nails can get caught in a sweater while mating, which is a strangling hazard to the hen and a dangerous situation for the rooster who cannot free himself.

6. A roosters spurs or nails can get caught in a sweater while mating, which is a strangling hazard to the hen and dangerous for the rooster who cannot free himself.

Most chickens dislike walking in snow, but will venture out into a clear or shoveled area. Some chickens will brave the snow voluntarily, but don't try to force, cajole, encourage or bribe them into going outside. Allow them the opportunity to wander out by leaving the door to a protected run open, but let them decide where they want to spend their time.

The average molting chicken in winter does not need help to stay warm. Take the cute photo and then pack that sweater away with the Halloween costume she also finds irritating. (Battery hens that are primarily naked in cold weather may be an exception to the above, but even then, sweaters contribute more to making humans feel better about “doing something” for neglected birds than actually contributing to a bird’s well being.) In freezing temperatures, any backyard chicken that is molting and mostly un-feathered would be better served by an indoor dog crate in the basement or garage than a sweater.

When temperatures are extreme and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens would be well served by being contained to a covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles.

OUTSIDE SHELTER

If the run is not currently covered, cover it. The run is the primary living space in inclement weather; a dry, draft-free area must be provided for eating, drinking, dust bathing. The bigger the chicken run, the better. A backyard coop is only for egg-laying and sleeping at night. All other activities should occur in the run. Chickens must be provided with personal space to fend off boredom, obesity and avoid behavioral problems such as feather picking and egg-eating. The bare minimum space allocation in the run per bird is ten square feet.

When temperatures are extreme and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens would be well served by being contained to a covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles.

 Most chickens dislike walking in snow, but will venture out into a clear or shoveled area. Some chickens will brave the snow voluntarily, but don’t try to force, cajole, encourage or bribe them into going outside. Allow them the opportunity to wander out by leaving the door to a protected run open, but let them decide where they want to spend their time.

Snowhen www.The-Chicken-Chick.com

When temperatures are extreme (double-digits below zero) and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens should be confined to a completely winterized and covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles. My New England flock appreciates a spacious run protected from the elements when it’s dangerously cold outside.

Round up the shovels and fire up the snow-blower before they are needed and keep them in a convenient location.

In inclement weather, chickens that cannot access areas they are accustomed to frequenting (either the run or pasture because they are snow-covered) will quickly get bored, which can lead to feather picking and cannibalism.

MISCELLANEOUS WINTER PREP TIPS

Clean It: The chicken coop and run should be deep-cleaned in autumn. Remove everything that is not permanently affixed and clean it well. Unless the deep litter method or sand are being used as coop litter, all of the bedding and nest box material should be replaced.

The chicken coop and run should be deep-cleaned in autumn. Remove everything that is not permanently affixed and clean it well. Unless the deep litter method or sand are being used as coop litter, all of the bedding and nest box material should be replaced.

Secure It: Autumn cleaning is a good time to re-assess the coop and run for breaches in security. Hardware cloth should be intact on windows and the run. Any hole bigger than 1/2 inch is a potential portal for predators and pests. Chicken wire should be replaced with hardware cloth Many predators can tear through chicken wire with ease.

Secure It: Autumn cleaning is a good time to re-assess the coop and run for breaches in security. Hardware cloth should be intact on windows and the run. Any hole bigger than 1/2 inch is a potential portal for predators and pests.

Winter Weaponry: Round up the shovels and prime the snow-blower before they are needed and keep them in a convenient location.

A chicken will eat more in the winter than any other time of year to fuel its internal furnace. Check feeders more frequently than usual. Don't stockpile feed because feed components lose their nutritional value as it sits. It can also get moldy or become rancid.

Feed: Chickens eat more feed in the cold than any other time of year to fuel their internal furnaces. Make feed available to chickens during all waking hours. Don’t stockpile feed because feed components lose their nutritional value over time. It can also get moldy or become rancid.

 20+ boredom busters for backyard chickens

Boredom
In inclement weather, chickens that cannot access areas they are accustomed to frequenting (either the run or pasture because they are snow-covered) will quickly get bored, which can lead to feather picking and cannibalism.

Add outdoor roosts, logs, stumps, flower pots full of potting soil and dust bathing areas. Give the birds a new playground that looks different from their fair-weather run. It'll help them stay out of each others' way and encourage exercise. Try not to rely upon snacks/treats/food for entertainment routinely. Cover the run with a roof so they can get out of the coop even in foul weather.

Add Enrichment Activities:
Add outdoor roosts, logs, stumps, flower pots full of potting soil and dust bathing areas. Give the birds a new playground that looks different from their fair-weather run. It’ll help them stay out of each others’ way and encourage exercise. Try not to rely upon snacks/treats/food for entertainment routinely. Cover the run with a roof so they can get out of the coop even in foul weather.

You can get a lot of bang for the entertainment buck with this foul weather dust bath hack!

Research demonstrates unequivocally that backyard chickens are dying from obesity-related complications, primarily Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome and heat stroke. Our pet chickens are sufficiently spoiled with treats year round and many are already fatter than they should be going into winter. Plying them with high fat or high energy treats such as suet blocks and cracked corn does them no favors.

Provide entertainment rarely in the form of pecking treats: Flock Block Substitute,

Our backyard pet chickens have fat reserves upon which to draw on cold nights; they are well fed, often over-fed. Treats and snacks are not beneficial, they can only interfere with the nutrient balance they need to ingest via layer feed. Laying hens should not be “fattened up” for winter! Research demonstrates unequivocally that backyard chickens are dying from obesity-related complications, primarily Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome and heat stroke from being fed dietary extras in addition to their layer feed. Pet chickens are not wild birds that forage for meager rations, they are well fed daily. Chickens will increase their layer feed intake to supply the supplemental calories necessary to maintain their body temperatures. They do not benefit from high fat or high energy treats such as suet, scratch, or cracked corn, which will only create nutrient imbalance for the hens, causing all kinds of problems with their health, behavior, egg production, and inability to re-grow feathers properly.

*Give suet blocks to wild birds and save the pet chickens!*
Obesity is a far worse problem than boredom and too many treats over time is killing backyard chickens.

 Collecting eggs frequently is the best way to avoid frozen eggs in very cold temperatures. Insulating the nest boxes can help with heat loss in between collections. Visit my blog article for a unique twist on keeping eggs from freezing here.

Egg Challenges

Frozen eggs: Collecting eggs frequently is the best way to avoid frozen eggs in very cold temperatures. Insulating the nest boxes can help with heat loss in between collections. Visit my blog article for a unique twist on keeping eggs from freezing here.

DIY Nest Box Cozy Prevents frozen eggs

Dirty Eggs from Muddy Feet: The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Since washing eggs removes the bloom, the egg's natural protective coating, it is better to wash eggs immediately prior to use if necessary, therefore, keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

  • Don’t build new coops in low-lying, wet land, which will become muddy at the least bit of precipitation. Install drainage if necessary.

  • Cover the run with a roof to keep rain and snow out. (also fabulous for shade in the heat of summer

The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Since washing eggs removes the bloom, the egg's natural protective coating, it is better to wash eggs immediately prior to use if necessary, therefore, keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

Important Note: This article does NOT pertain to the management of baby chicks. Chicks require special care, which includes a SAFE heat source since they are physically unable to regulate their body temperatures. For more about baby chick care, click here.

And finally, remember that spring is just around the corner!

And finally, remember that spring is just around the corner!

Kathy Shea Mormino, The Chicken Chick®

 

Kathy Shea Mormino

Affectionately known internationally as The Chicken Chick®, Kathy Shea Mormino shares a fun-loving, informative style to raising backyard chickens. …Read on

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Thoughts of surviving winter with chickens don’t have to send chills up your spine. There are only a few things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water, a nutritionally complete chicken feed and a dry, draft-free living space. Actively planning to ensure chickens have those resources is the key to cold weather comfort and safety. When effective litter and best management practices are used for waste management, bracing for winter’s bite shouldn’t require much effort. 

 The thought of surviving winter with chickens don't have to send chills up your spine. There are really only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

     Features:

  • Built-in thermostat turns heating element on at 40°F, off at 60°F 
  • Provides clean water to the flock year-round with removable electric cord with detachable, 16 foot, grounded electrical cord
  • Lid shape prevents birds from perching on waterer
  • Heavy-duty handle for carrying and hanging
  •  3 recessed nipples with drip-catch design
  • 16′ electrical cord allows more flexibility in placement
  • Detachable 16 ft. grounded electrical cord for non-winter use 
  • 3 gallon capacity
  • NEW feature: hinged quick-fill cap on lid!

Entry details below!

Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

WATER IS ESSENTIAL

Water is the essential nutrient in a chicken’s daily diet; it is required for regulating body temperature, digestion, growth and egg production. Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

NEVER KEEP WATER OR FOOD INSIDE THE CHICKEN COOP!

3 Solutions to frozen water:

Chickens eat more in the winter to regulate their temperature and they require water to digest food- if water is frozen, they will not eat and cannot warm themselves properly.

1. Cookie Tin water heater: For less than $10 and 10 minutes, a water heater can be fashioned out of common household objects, which will keep water in plastic and metal waterers liquid in sub-zero temperatures. (limitation: electricity required)

Cookie Tin water heater: For less than $10 and 10 minutes, a water heater can be fashioned out of common household objects, which will keep water in plastic and metal waterers liquid in sub-zero temperatures. (limitation: electricity required)DIY Cookie Tin Water Heater Instructions HERE

This drinker is available HERE and HERE.

2. Poultry Nipple waterers: A variety of nipple water systems can be used to ensure a constant water supply, from a homemade system with a 5 gallon bucket with an aquarium heater to a commercially available unit with its own heating system. (electricity required)

 Without electricity to the coop, traditional waterers require changing frequently throughout the day to prevent freezing. They should be emptied or removed at dusk and returned to the flock first thing in the morning. (not the most efficient system, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do)

3. Haul it: Without electricity to the coop, traditional waterers require changing frequently throughout the day to prevent freezing. They should be emptied or removed at dusk and returned to the flock first thing in the morning. It’s not the most efficient system, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY

While access to drinking water is essential, ironically, water is also the enemy of chickens in winter. Most breeds tolerate cold extremely well, but freezing temperatures inside the coop in addition to moisture increases the risk of frostbite. Chickens generate a great deal of moisture from respiration (breathing) as well as from pooping as droppings consist of 85% water. If the windows of the coop have condensation on them in the morning, there is a problem. Either the litter type is ineffective, there is an unacceptable amount of poop in the coop, and/or a drinker is being kept inside the coop. NEVER KEEP FOOD OR WATER INSIDE THE CHICKEN COOP!

While access to drinking water is essential, ironically, water is also the enemy of chickens in winter. Most breeds tolerate cold extremely well, but freezing temperatures inside the coop in addition to moisture is the recipe for frostbite.

Read all about frostbite prevention and treatment here.

Frostbite is most likely to occur overnight in a cold, poorly ventilated coop where litter is damp and moisture from droppings and respiration cannot escape. Frostbite to combs, wattles, and toes is super painful and can interfere with fertility in roosters and egg production in hens. Roosters and breeds with single combs are at the greatest risk of frostbite. Much more about frostbite prevention and treatment here.

If utilizing a hygrometer inside the chicken coop, the target relative humidity is 50-70%

STRATEGIES FOR CONTROLLING MOISTURE:

If utilizing a hygrometer inside the chicken coop, the target relative humidity is 50-70%.

Droppings boards are essentially a shelf designed to collect chicken poop deposited overnight. The boards are scraped down every morning, and the poop is removed from the coop. The less poop inside the coop, the less moisture in the coop. Droppings also generate ammonia, which can be a respiratory hazard to the flock, particularly in a closed coop. When droppings boards are used, a major source of humidity & ammonia are eliminated.

Use Droppings Boards
Droppings boards are essentially a shelf designed to collect chicken poop deposited overnight. The boards are scraped down every morning, and the poop is removed from the coop. The less poop inside the coop, the less moisture in the coop. Droppings also generate ammonia, which can be a respiratory hazard to the flock, particularly in a closed coop. When droppings boards are used, a major source of humidity & potential ammonia are eliminated.

I add thin layer of Sweet Coop® to the droppings boards to absorb any residual moisture after scraping.

Chickens should not be without water for more than an hour or so during the day. If using supplemental lighting to promote continued egg production in autumn and winter, I suggest using a poultry nipple waterer inside the coop for the very early morning hours before the flock is let out into the run. This will minimize the amount of water than could spill in the bedding. A drip pan of some sort to catch stray droplets is a good idea. Remove the waterer from the coop when the flock is let out of the coop for the day.

Don’t Keep Water Inside the Coop!
Keep feed and drinkers OUT of the chicken coop! While controlling moisture from respiration and droppings is manageable with proper litter management and droppings boards, it is impossible to keep ahead of the moisture curve with drinking water in the litter and chickens are traipsing into the coop all day to eat, drink and poop. As long as the flock is given access to water within an hour of daybreak, there is no need for water inside the coop. Chickens do not drink water at night- they sleep.

The thought of surviving winter with chickens doesn't have to send chills up your spine. There are only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

Use Sand for Litter
The use of sand as litter inside the chicken coop is an outstanding choice in the winter because it evaporates moisture more rapidly than other litter and stays drier as a result. Sand also retains warmth better than any other bedding and given its high thermal mass, it will keep coop temperatures more stable than other litter types such as pine shavings. Straw is not appropriate for use as litter for chicken coops. Learn why here.
The use of sand as litter inside the chicken coop is an outstanding choice in the winter because it evaporates moisture more rapidly than other litter and stays drier as a result. Sand also retains warmth better than any other bedding and given its high thermal mass, it will keep coop temperatures more stable than other litter choices such as pine shavings and straw. Sweet PDZ sprinkled in the litter will help control moisture and ammonia.

Deep litter method?
I do not recommend the deep litter method for most backyard flocks. Deep litter is a method of chicken waste management that calls for droppings and organic litter materials to compost inside the chicken coop. There is a popular misconception that deep litter is the lazy man’s way of managing waste and heating the coop, it is not. Deep litter requires careful management, which includes stirring and monitoring moisture content and temperatures. The deep litter method implemented improperly can be a serious health hazard to the flock. Most backyard flocks are not large enough to produce the requisite manure mass to reach the required temperatures at the heart of the litter to execute this method safely. The litter should NOT be changed every few weeks, the process should NOT be started in winter, there should NOT be fewer than 4 inches of litter on the coop floor, diatomaceous earth (DE) should NEVER be used in the litter and chickens should NOT be relied upon to manage the litter. More information about the deep litter method here.

Insulating is intended to retain radiant heat and reduce heat loss, making it more feasible to ventilate the coop well.

Insulation on coop roof.

INSULATE & ELIMINATE DRAFTS

Insulating is intended to retain radiant heat and reduce heat loss. Insulating a coop does NOT mean making it air-tight! If there are gaps in walls or around windows they should be sealed to prevent drafts.
Insulation must be hidden from chickens- otherwise they will eat it. Feed bags are a cost-effective choice for covering insulation. We insulate the roof of our 4’x6′ coop. The north and west-facing walls of the coop are protected from the wind by heavyweight plastic covering the run walls.

Chickens cannot retain the heat they naturally generate if their feathers are ruffled from drafts blowing on them while sleeping. Eliminate drafts and the chickens will keep themselves warm in a dry chicken coop.

Bales of straw or hay should not be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus can grow inside the bales and create a respiratory disaster area inside the coop, in particular, Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia). Far better to have a cold coop than sick chickens.

Bales of straw or hay should NEVER be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus grow on them, and mites often live inside straw, creating a respiratory health disaster zone inside the coop; of particular concern is Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia).

Bales of straw or hay should not be placed inside the chicken coop as insulation. Mold and fungus can grow inside the bales and create a respiratory disaster area inside the coop, in particular, Aspergillosis (brooder pneumonia). Far better to have a cold coop than sick chickens.

CREATE WIND-BREAKS 

Covering run walls with 4 or 6 ml contractor’s plastic sheeting plastic or tarps can serve several purposes: it provides the flock with a warmer run by keeping rain, wind and snow out during the day and it can keep the coop warmer and draft-free at night, depending upon the location of the run relative to the coop. Furring strips should be nailed or screwed to the structure to ensure that the plastic remains in place. Staples are likely to fail in windy conditions. I use 6ml opaque sheeting and clear plastic sheeting for the front of the runs for glass-like visibility

Covering run walls with construction grade plastic sheeting or tarps can serve several purposes: it provides the flock with a warmer run by keeping rain, wind and snow out during the day and it can keep the coop warmer and draft-free at night, depending upon the location of the run relative to the coop. Furring strips should be nailed or screwed to the structure to ensure that the plastic remains in place.Shown: contractor’s plastic sheeting

Contractor’s plastic and lathing secured with screws keeps moisture and drafts out of the winter chicken run.

Attach plastic to chicken run using screws and lathing.

VENTILATE WITHOUT DRAFTS

Moisture and any ammonia must have a route of escape from the coop even if it means losing some heat in the process. Don’t get caught up with this detail- backyard chickens do not spend all day and all night in the coop, the coop will be opened in the morning, the birds will leave the coop and plenty of fresh air will enter throughout the day. Ventilation is more of a concern for birds kept in commercial buildings 24/7 than backyard chickens overnight in a coop.

Ensuring adequate ventilation is the single most important cold weather chicken care task. Yes, even more important than heat. Why? Because ammonia and moisture must have a route of escape from the coop even if it means losing some heat in the process. Fresh air inside the coop is critical to chickens' health.

HOW TO VENTILATE A COOP:
The goal is to get as much air exchange throughout the coop as possible without drafts, particularly in the roost area. Ideally there will be windows and/or vents on all four sides of the coop. Ventilation holes towards the top of the coop, far above roost height and chicken height are best for achieving effective cold weather air exchange. If your coop does not have adequate ventilation, create more. Think: windows, not little holes. A reciprocating saw, some hinges, hardware cloth and washers/screws are all the supplies necessary to install additional ventilation in an existing coop.

The thought of surviving winter with chickens doesn't have to send chills up your spine. There are only two things that are critical to a backyard flock in cold temperatures: access to water and a dry coop.

We built our Little Deuce coop with vented eaves and a 9 foot ceiling. Yes, the warmest air will exit through the ventilation at the top of the coop, but warm air holds more moisture than cold air and the warmest air will take the moisture with it, which is the precisely what we want to accomplish.

The goal is to get as much air exchange throughout the coop as possible without drafts, particularly in the roost area. Ideally there will be windows and/or vents on all four sides of the coop. Ventilation holes towards the top of the coop, far above roost height and chicken height are best for achieving effective cold weather air exchange. If your coop does not have adequate ventilation, create more.

We did not build our 4’x6′ coop- it came with three functioning windows on two opposing walls, but they did not provide enough ventilation for cooling in the summer, so…we cut more windows in the coop. The photo below shows the drop-down window we created above the pop door. Since the walls of the run are covered with heavy plastic in the winter, I can use the homemade coop vents in conjunction with the factory-installed windows to promote airflow in the coop.

The take-home message is: install as much ventilation as high up on the walls as possible while ensuring that the air over the roost remains still. You want the warmest, heaviest air moving up and out of the coop. If necessary, create a roost hood, which is like an awning over the roost (see photo above) to ensure that the pocket of air around the roosting chickens remains still. They're expending energy to keep themselves warm and cold drafts will rob them of it.

The take-home message is: install as much ventilation as high up on the walls as possible while ensuring that the air over the roost remains still. You want the warmest, heaviest air moving up and out of the coop. If necessary, create a roost hood, which is like an awning over the roost to ensure that the pocket of air above the roosting chickens remains still. They’re expending energy to keep themselves warm and cold drafts will rob them of it.

This roost hood is made with styrofoam insulation boards, which the chickens may peck at- if they do, covering the sheets with duct tape will solve that problem.

This roost hood is made with styrofoam insulation boards, which the chickens may peck at- if they do, covering the sheets with duct tape will solve that problem.

Wherever you live, your chickens will naturally acclimate to the changes in temperature from season to season. Regardless of where you come down on the issue of heating the chicken coop, please remember that a chicken's physiology is not the same as a person's. Our perception of how cold we would be in the coop at night is not the same as a chicken's perception.

THE HOT TOPIC: HEAT IN THE COOP

Wherever you live, your chickens will naturally acclimate to the changes in temperature from season to season. Regardless of where you come down on the issue of heating the chicken coop, please remember that a chicken’s physiology is not the same as a person’s. Our perception of how cold we would be in the coop at night is not the same as a chicken’s actual comfort level!

A chicken is able to increase its body temperature by eating more in cold weather. Digestion creates internal heat, which radiates through the skin warming the air next to it, which is then trapped against its body by feathers. Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down coats!

A chicken is also able to conserve body heat by restricting blood-flow to its comb, wattles and feet, the very parts of the body that give off excess heat in warm weather. Not only do they have mechanisms to keep themselves comfortable in the cold, they huddle together to keep each other warm.

How a Chicken Regulates Body Temperature

A chicken is able to increase its body temperature by eating more in cold weather. Digestion creates internal heat, which radiates through the skin warming the air next to it, which is then trapped against its body by feathers. Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down coats!

Doc Brown is keeping herself warm by fluffing out her feathers to trap warm air next to her body

Doc Brown is shown here keeping herself warm by fluffing out her feathers to trap warm air next to her body.

A chicken is also able to conserve body heat by restricting blood-flow to its comb, wattles and feet, the very parts of the body that give off excess heat in warm weather. Not only do they have mechanisms to keep themselves comfortable in the cold, they huddle together to keep each other comfortable and warm.

Installing 2″x4″ boards instead of round roosts provides them with the ability to cover and warm their feet. I took the following photo inside the coop late at night after an all day snowstorm. The day’s high temperature was 18°F and the temperature outside at 11pm was 18°F. The temperature inside the coop was nearly 40°F! The combination of windbreaks, insulation, sand as litter and the chickens’ collective body heat all contribute to an extremely reasonable, comfortable and dry environment for the flock.

Chickens are tiny furnaces wrapped in down jackets |The Chicken Chick®

IF you decide to add heat to the chicken coop in the winter, I implore you to please put safety first in choosing a heat source.

 

Never use a heat lamp! There is simply no way to make heat lamps completely safe with flying animals regardless of the number of chains/clamps/tethers or guards employed. There are countless ways heat lamps can cause fires. Feathers and dust are highly flammable- any scuffle inside the coop can send a chicken and/or feathers flying into a heat lamp, catching them on fire. There is no way to use a traditional heat lamp safely inside a chicken coop.

There is simply no way to make heat lamps completely safe regardless of the number of chains/clamps/tethers or guards employed. Chickens have wings and feathers that are highly flammable- any scuffle inside the coop can send a chicken and/or feathers flying into a heat lamp, catching them on fire.

Fires like this occur every year in coops and barns due to heat lamps installed with the best of intentions.

  • If you must, only use a safe form of heat such as a flat panel, radiant heater. Only supply enough heat to raise the coop temperature a few degrees- the coop should not feel warm to you. Chickens are not served well by walking out of a toasty hen house into a freezing cold run. The more time they spend inside the coop, the more droppings accumulate inside the coop, the more moisture there is inside the coop, the less exercise they get, etc.

Automatically regulate the use of electric heat sources such as a flat panel heater or cookie tin water heater by utilizing a device like the Thermo Cube TC3, which will turn the power on at 35°F and off at 45°F

Plan for power failure. If you do not have a generator to power a heat source to the coop during a blackout, do not heat the coop at all. Chickens have died and will die as a result of sudden drops in temperature from a power outage when the coop is heated.

The bigger the run, (aka: enclosed outdoor area attached to the coop) the better. A spacious run gives chickens the personal space and exercise opportunities that do not exist inside the average coop. Chickens must be provided with elbow room to fend off boredom, obesity and avoid behavioral problems such as feather picking and egg-eating.

Plan for power failure. If you do not have a generator to power a heat source to the coop during a blackout, do not heat the coop at all. Chickens have died and will die as a result of sudden drops in temperature from a power outage when the coop is heated.

Perhaps we should have gone south for the winter?

chicken sweaters are not only unnecessary, they may be counterproductive, here's why:

CHICKEN SWEATERS: Just say NO!

The average chicken does NOT NEED a sweater. I’m not trying to be the Fun Police, I’m all about taking eggcellent care of pet chickens and enjoy a little silliness with them from time-to-time, but I have long felt that chicken sweaters are not only unnecessary, they can be hazardous, here’s why:

1. A sweater prevents a chicken from keeping itself warm naturally. (see “How a chicken regulates body temperature,” above)

2. A sweater will trap moisture next to the chicken’s skin, which further impedes its ability to stay warm and encourages lice & mites to set up camp on feathers and skin.

3. A sweater is a painful proposition for a molting hen whose sensitive pin feathers are better left untouched.

4. A sweater prevents a chicken from maintaining their own hygiene; dust-bathing and preening their feathers are important to keeping parasite populations down and feathers in good working order.

A chicken sweater provides hawks with a handy carrying-case for a free-range chicken. Let's not make their jobs any easier.

5. A chicken sweater provides hawks with a handy carrying-case for a free-range chicken. Let’s not make their jobs any easier.

A roosters spurs or nails can get caught in a sweater while mating, which is a strangling hazard to the hen and a dangerous situation for the rooster who cannot free himself.

6. A roosters spurs or nails can get caught in a sweater while mating, which is a strangling hazard to the hen and dangerous for the rooster who cannot free himself.

Most chickens dislike walking in snow, but will venture out into a clear or shoveled area. Some chickens will brave the snow voluntarily, but don't try to force, cajole, encourage or bribe them into going outside. Allow them the opportunity to wander out by leaving the door to a protected run open, but let them decide where they want to spend their time.

The average molting chicken in winter does not need help to stay warm. Take the cute photo and then pack that sweater away with the Halloween costume she also finds irritating. (Battery hens that are primarily naked in cold weather may be an exception to the above, but even then, sweaters contribute more to making humans feel better about “doing something” for neglected birds than actually contributing to a bird’s well being.) In freezing temperatures, any backyard chicken that is molting and mostly un-feathered would be better served by an indoor dog crate in the basement or garage than a sweater.

When temperatures are extreme and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens would be well served by being contained to a covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles.

OUTSIDE SHELTER

If the run is not currently covered, cover it. The run is the primary living space in inclement weather; a dry, draft-free area must be provided for eating, drinking, dust bathing. The bigger the chicken run, the better. A backyard coop is only for egg-laying and sleeping at night. All other activities should occur in the run. Chickens must be provided with personal space to fend off boredom, obesity and avoid behavioral problems such as feather picking and egg-eating. The bare minimum space allocation in the run per bird is ten square feet.

When temperatures are extreme and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens would be well served by being contained to a covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles.

 Most chickens dislike walking in snow, but will venture out into a clear or shoveled area. Some chickens will brave the snow voluntarily, but don’t try to force, cajole, encourage or bribe them into going outside. Allow them the opportunity to wander out by leaving the door to a protected run open, but let them decide where they want to spend their time.

Snowhen www.The-Chicken-Chick.com

When temperatures are extreme (double-digits below zero) and/or are accompanied by precipitation and/or wind, chickens should be confined to a completely winterized and covered run. Extreme cold in addition to wind/snow/rain puts chickens, even cold-hardy breeds, at risk for frostbitten feet, combs and wattles. My New England flock appreciates a spacious run protected from the elements when it’s dangerously cold outside.

Round up the shovels and fire up the snow-blower before they are needed and keep them in a convenient location.

In inclement weather, chickens that cannot access areas they are accustomed to frequenting (either the run or pasture because they are snow-covered) will quickly get bored, which can lead to feather picking and cannibalism.

MISCELLANEOUS WINTER PREP TIPS

Clean It: The chicken coop and run should be deep-cleaned in autumn. Remove everything that is not permanently affixed and clean it well. Unless the deep litter method or sand are being used as coop litter, all of the bedding and nest box material should be replaced.

The chicken coop and run should be deep-cleaned in autumn. Remove everything that is not permanently affixed and clean it well. Unless the deep litter method or sand are being used as coop litter, all of the bedding and nest box material should be replaced.

Secure It: Autumn cleaning is a good time to re-assess the coop and run for breaches in security. Hardware cloth should be intact on windows and the run. Any hole bigger than 1/2 inch is a potential portal for predators and pests. Chicken wire should be replaced with hardware cloth Many predators can tear through chicken wire with ease.

Secure It: Autumn cleaning is a good time to re-assess the coop and run for breaches in security. Hardware cloth should be intact on windows and the run. Any hole bigger than 1/2 inch is a potential portal for predators and pests.

Winter Weaponry: Round up the shovels and prime the snow-blower before they are needed and keep them in a convenient location.

A chicken will eat more in the winter than any other time of year to fuel its internal furnace. Check feeders more frequently than usual. Don't stockpile feed because feed components lose their nutritional value as it sits. It can also get moldy or become rancid.

Feed: Chickens eat more feed in the cold than any other time of year to fuel their internal furnaces. Make feed available to chickens during all waking hours. Don’t stockpile feed because feed components lose their nutritional value over time. It can also get moldy or become rancid.

 20+ boredom busters for backyard chickens

Boredom
In inclement weather, chickens that cannot access areas they are accustomed to frequenting (either the run or pasture because they are snow-covered) will quickly get bored, which can lead to feather picking and cannibalism.

Add outdoor roosts, logs, stumps, flower pots full of potting soil and dust bathing areas. Give the birds a new playground that looks different from their fair-weather run. It'll help them stay out of each others' way and encourage exercise. Try not to rely upon snacks/treats/food for entertainment routinely. Cover the run with a roof so they can get out of the coop even in foul weather.

Add Enrichment Activities:
Add outdoor roosts, logs, stumps, flower pots full of potting soil and dust bathing areas. Give the birds a new playground that looks different from their fair-weather run. It’ll help them stay out of each others’ way and encourage exercise. Try not to rely upon snacks/treats/food for entertainment routinely. Cover the run with a roof so they can get out of the coop even in foul weather.

You can get a lot of bang for the entertainment buck with this foul weather dust bath hack!

Research demonstrates unequivocally that backyard chickens are dying from obesity-related complications, primarily Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome and heat stroke. Our pet chickens are sufficiently spoiled with treats year round and many are already fatter than they should be going into winter. Plying them with high fat or high energy treats such as suet blocks and cracked corn does them no favors.

Provide entertainment rarely in the form of pecking treats: Flock Block Substitute,

Our backyard pet chickens have fat reserves upon which to draw on cold nights; they are well fed, often over-fed. Treats and snacks are not beneficial, they can only interfere with the nutrient balance they need to ingest via layer feed. Laying hens should not be “fattened up” for winter! Research demonstrates unequivocally that backyard chickens are dying from obesity-related complications, primarily Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome and heat stroke from being fed dietary extras in addition to their layer feed. Pet chickens are not wild birds that forage for meager rations, they are well fed daily. Chickens will increase their layer feed intake to supply the supplemental calories necessary to maintain their body temperatures. They do not benefit from high fat or high energy treats such as suet, scratch, or cracked corn, which will only create nutrient imbalance for the hens, causing all kinds of problems with their health, behavior, egg production, and inability to re-grow feathers properly.

*Give suet blocks to wild birds and save the pet chickens!*
Obesity is a far worse problem than boredom and too many treats over time is killing backyard chickens.

 Collecting eggs frequently is the best way to avoid frozen eggs in very cold temperatures. Insulating the nest boxes can help with heat loss in between collections. Visit my blog article for a unique twist on keeping eggs from freezing here.

Egg Challenges

Frozen eggs: Collecting eggs frequently is the best way to avoid frozen eggs in very cold temperatures. Insulating the nest boxes can help with heat loss in between collections. Visit my blog article for a unique twist on keeping eggs from freezing here.

DIY Nest Box Cozy Prevents frozen eggs

Dirty Eggs from Muddy Feet: The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Since washing eggs removes the bloom, the egg's natural protective coating, it is better to wash eggs immediately prior to use if necessary, therefore, keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

  • Don’t build new coops in low-lying, wet land, which will become muddy at the least bit of precipitation. Install drainage if necessary.

  • Cover the run with a roof to keep rain and snow out. (also fabulous for shade in the heat of summer

The main cause of dirty eggs in winter is mud; mud in the run gets tracked into the nest boxes on feet and feathers, making eggs dirty. Since washing eggs removes the bloom, the egg's natural protective coating, it is better to wash eggs immediately prior to use if necessary, therefore, keeping eggs clean at the source should be a priority.

Important Note: This article does NOT pertain to the management of baby chicks. Chicks require special care, which includes a SAFE heat source since they are physically unable to regulate their body temperatures. For more about baby chick care, click here.

And finally, remember that spring is just around the corner!

And finally, remember that spring is just around the corner!

Kathy Shea Mormino, The Chicken Chick®

 

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Al
Al
2024 years ago

Going to be a real challenge this winter! First winter with chickens. Already has been -17 with wind. Had frost bite at 20* when they insisted to hang out in our cedar tree in the wind afraid to walk in the snow that fell rapidly while getting their bugs. Now trying to deal with continuous cold. Hasn’t been above 15 for a week now. Lows in negative teens every night. Poor birds. Seem ok to stay cozy in the coop. 3 boys and 7 girls all getting along fine so far. 6×10 with heat and insulated against cold Minnesota winter.

Ericca Colby
Ericca Colby
2024 years ago

Don’t use play sand! You want washed construction sand, There articles here describing what you want to get.

Karen Nadeau Barnes
Karen Nadeau Barnes
2024 years ago

Awsome! Maine can get some cold winters. I will grab some play sand from a Home Depot or Lowe’s building store.